A sea of white, an overdose of romance and clichés. That could be the image that sceptics have of an exhibition about 250 years of bridal fashion. Because how do you give the theme of bridal fashion depth, also for those who are not (yet) brides-to-be? Fortunately, the Fries Museum in Leeuwarden, the Netherlands, succeeds in doing so with flying colours in the exhibition ‘I Do’. The exhibition is personal, informative and knows how to put the position of women in a historical context.
Anyone who enters the exhibition is welcomed by an interpretation of Mendelssohn’s Wedding March – a more appropriate welcome is hard to imagine. To the right of the entrance, the Viktor&Rolf wedding dress of Dutch YouTuber and make-up entrepreneur Nikkie de Jager is in the spotlight, but the attentive visitor will not miss the colours of the transgender flag in the light arches behind the dress. It is a subtle nod to De Jager, who is transgender herself.
The wedding dress of Nikkie de Jager, designed by Viktor&Rolf. Credits: Fries Museum / Ruben van Vliet
This detail is one of the many things that make the exhibition so strong. This is largely due to Maison the Faux, the Dutch fashion house and creative studio that was responsible for the decor and design of the exhibition. They were given completely free rein by the Fries Museum and they have used that freedom cleverly. Among other things, this means that the information about the dresses on display has been processed in ‘scrapbooks’. On the left you will find the historical context of the garment and on the right the personal story of the wearer. In addition, the garments are exhibited in one of the first halls in rings, on the inside of which the name of the wearer and the wedding date are ‘engraved’.
Another room shows quotes from women’s magazines on the subject of bridal fashion from the 1950s to 1970s, such as Margriet and Libelle. Not to be missed is the wedding cake, which serves as a stage for bridal couture in the last room. The idea of a straightforward fashion exhibition quickly fades thanks to these elements. They show creativity and the courage to question the traditional approach to a fashion exhibition. Without Maison the Faux, ‘I Do’ would not have the impact that the exhibition now has, that much is certain after a visit to the museum.
The hall in which the wedding dresses are displayed in ‘rings’. Credits: Fries Museum / Ruben van Vliet
‘I Do’: A fresh look at bridal fashion beyond the clichés
While a fashion exhibition often focuses on the history of a brand, a movement or certain designers, the personal story is often lacking. Exhibited pieces have often had one or more owners, but this story often does not find a place in the overview. That can be a major shortcoming. The Fries Museum has deliberately opted for pieces with a known personal story for ‘I Do’. Because first of all: what could be more personal than a wedding dress that marks a significant moment in a woman’s life, especially in the past? Secondly: the personal story allows the position of women in society at that time to become clearer.
It quickly becomes evident that around 1800 mainly wealthy brides wore white, because a bride from less affluent circumstances simply could not afford to wear a dress only once. A dress in a colour other than white was therefore more practical. Black was not an uncommon colour, as the dress could then be used for official occasions or even during mourning. After the big day, the dress was often reworked so that it was suitable for other occasions. For example, bows and flower decorations were removed and sometimes the sleeves or the length of the skirt were adjusted.
The ‘scrapbooks’ with personal stories and sometimes even wedding photos. Credits: Fries Museum / Photo: Ruben van Vliet.
The personal stories that accompany the garments show that there were also rebellious brides at that time. For example, one of the wealthier brides appears in a striped dress in bright blue, despite it being fashionable to marry in white at the time. A bride at the beginning of the 20th century opts for a ‘walking jacket’ instead of a wedding dress, because she wants to be able to move. She is a member of a cycling club and is enthusiastic about sports, a hobby that was not yet common for women in this period.
The wedding dresses from wartimes show that brides and their families can be creative. For example, a dress made of billiard cloth (the black-green fabric of a billiard table) can be seen, the flower curtains of a family member had to serve for an elaborate wedding dress and there is a dress made from the white nylon parachute of an American soldier. Whether times are tough or not, the desire to celebrate love and say ‘I do’ seems timeless.
Not just for sugar-sweet brides: ‘I Do’ reveals the depth of bridal fashion
Anyone who is looking for a wedding dress themselves can find what they are looking for in the studio of Claes Iversen. Although this is a replica of the studio of the Dutch fashion designer, you can get enough information here. For example, there is a table with fabric samples, where the price per metre is also stated. The difference between the varying materials is sometimes noticeable. Would you be willing to pay 50 euros per metre for a certain type of lace? A little further on, different elements of a wedding dress can be combined with each other to create your own dream dress.
The replica studio of Claes Iversen. Credits: Fries Museum / Photo: Ruben van Vliet
As for the interactive elements of the exhibition, the quiz should not be forgotten. Spread over the six halls are small ring boxes with a QR code. Each code leads to a different question, which relates to one of the designs near the box. For example, you have to indicate whether you would marry in white, whether you would opt for colour, whether you would like to stand out or whether you would rather follow tradition. The quiz offers curious visitors the opportunity to find out what type of bride they are. The maximal bride, the traditional bride, the headstrong bride or the minimalist bride. And honestly: who is not curious about the result after such an exhibition?
In addition to the lesser-known brides who have been given a voice through the ‘scrapbooks’, there are also the prominent brides. For example, the wedding dresses of the first lesbian couple to marry in the Netherlands can be seen, as can the wedding dress of singer Connie Witteman. The affordable dresses from textile discounter Zeeman and the fashion designer duo Viktor&Rolf for H&M were also stand outs. The highlight is the wedding dress of the Dutch queen Máxima, which was personally placed on the doll in the museum by her own dresser.
Exhibition ‘I Do’. Credits: Fries Museum / Photo: Ruben van Vliet
Whether you are a future bride or not, the theme of bridal fashion always fascinates. Not always because of the fashion or the enormous sums of money involved, but because bridal fashion is linked to an important moment in the wearer’s life. A moment of love, a celebration or a change of status. This ensures that ‘I Do’ invites visitors to immerse themselves in another world, in which the turbulent outside world does not matter.
It is difficult to hide the enthusiasm for the exhibition ‘I Do’. The four years of preparation have ensured that the exhibition is well thought-out, informative and very personal. It shows what is possible when designing a fashion exhibition. Let’s hope that other museums will take an example from the Fries Museum.
‘I Do’ can be seen until 16 February 2025 at the Fries Museum in the Dutch city of Leeuwarden.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.nl and translated with the help of digital tools
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